Saturday, 18 October 2014

The Brushed Cotton Check Shirt

Keep warm this season in an Autumn Winter staple:       The brushed cotton shirt


If you're going to keep out the chills this season you'll need to layer up. Trapping air in between layers of clothing is the most effective way of keeping warm. Wearing a brushed cotton shirt makes heat retention more effecting, not only that but you'll look stylish and on trend too! 

A brushed cotton shirt styled with a waistcoat for warmth and dapperness. Image courtesy of GQ
One staple layer for most of us gents is of course the shirt. Wear a T-Shirt under it, add a waistcoat, cardigan or sweater over that, then a blazer before an overcoat and scarf and okay, you may not be able to move but you won't freeze either!

A brushed cotton shirt can be dapper too. Image via Pinterest
Woodhouse Clothing are offering a great range of brushed cotton shirts this season from some pretty cool designers. Throw one on with a pair of jeans or go more dapper and add a waistcoat and a bow tie.

Don't just consign them to the weekend, wear then to work with some chinos and smart boots and wool tie and blazer. 



BARBOUR


The John Green tartan brushed cotton shirt - £65





BOSS ORANGE


Califoe blue & black brushed cotton check shirt - £109




EDWIN


The red and navy brushed cotton check labour shirt - £75






PAUL SMITH JEANS


Khaki & navy check brushed cotton shirt - £109




PENFIELD


Ravenwood grey & navy plaid shirt - £65




Available now online at www.woodhouseclothing.com

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Thursday, 16 October 2014

Open is now Open!

New British Menswear Retailer OPEN, Launches Online Today

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The brand new OPEN website, ready to use


Today sees the online launch of new British menswear retailer OPEN at www.openstores.co.uk
Delivering a no-nonsense approach to modern menswear, OPEN puts design quality & value at its core. Focusing on the key trends for the season and essential wardrobe staples, their product offering is designed to appeal to men of all ages who take pride in the way they look every day.

Once of the Open stores popping up all over the UK

Inside the Open store. Lots to choose from

From the £5 tee to the £40 parka, attention to detail runs through every element of each product. OPEN was born in 2013 and is based at the Granary, creative space in Barking, East London. Their experienced team designs and develops exclusive collections of clothing, footwear and accessories.
“We aim to deliver a simple no-nonsense approach to menswear - premium quality at affordable prices in a clean modern, easy–to-shop environment.” said Stephen Galea, MD. “We're excited to see how our customers respond to us.” OPEN’s store concept, designed in collaboration with retail design specialists, Checkland Kindleysides, reflects our simple ethos. 
The interior features a neutral colour scheme, with raw materials such as wood and metal combined with OPEN’s signature highlight orange hue. Clean branding and packaging all combine with the shop’s interior to make OPEN the ultimate shopping destination for men who crave a 'no fuss’ retail experience.

The brand’s omni-channel approach from the start allows customers to engage with the brand in a way that fits their lifestyle. The first six stores are now open and a further 6 stores are planned to be rolled out by the end of the year. 

FIND OPEN


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Saturday, 11 October 2014

Shine On

What have the Dalai Lama, Mike Tyson, George Best and Brenda Blethyn have in common? They have all had their shoes shined by Steven Skippen 'The Shoe Whisperer'

Yours truly with Steven and the famous wing back chair


As I stepped off the tube at Green Park in my skinny black suit and leather loafers, the warm Autumnal air wafted past and the sun shone through the trees creating a dappled effect on the grass. I took up temporary residence on an old Victorian bench and whiled away a few minutes as joggers ran past and people on their lunch breaks sat in deck chairs and enjoyed their sandwiches.

Taking 5 in London's Green Park


The Hilton Hotel towering above London's Mayfair



Meet The Shoe Whisperer

Upon entering the lobby at the Hilton Hotel I was greeted with a big smile and a firm handshake by Mr Steven Skippen, the guy who shines the shoes of the rich and famous.

The entrance to the London Hilton

The Shoe Whisperer: Mr Steven Skippen

Using his bare hands to apply all the products Steven has honed his skills over the past 14 years after seeing a shoe shine at a London airport while collecting his wife. After getting his shoes shined there a number of times he was offered a job and accepted. 

While shining shoes at the airport the Manager of the Hilton Hotel became a customer and it was shortly after that he accepted a job shining shoes in this iconic hotel. Steven told me he really enjoys working at the Hilton because there is a good mix of people and great management.

Steven is passionate about giving top notch customer service when plying his art and refuses to use brushes to shine shoes “Brushes to me have no effect. If you applied cream to your face would you use a brush? I like to penetrate the leather with my bare hands giving care and a deep shine at the same time”


The Process

After a quick clean with bees wax, which also moisturises the leather Steven can also apply Mink Oil before applying polish in small circular motions with his thumb. He applies the polish and smooths it out before reapplying and repeating the process building up layers particularly on the toe and heel, being careful not to apply too much which could result in the polish cracking. He refers to his hands as the tools of his trade and likens them to a Swiss Army knife. 


The personal touch: My loafers get some attention
Buffed to perfection


This personal and dying art isn't as expensive as you may think. At just £7.75 for a polish its not out of reach for the majority of us. For £12.50 he will give your shoes a high shine on the toe cap and for £15.00 you can get a deep shine all over.

"He has extended the life of my shoes four times" says Graziano a regular of over ten years who gets his shoes shined by Steven three to four times a week. "He is the best in town. I have tried others but always come back"

Graziano gets his shoes shined by "the best in town"
Steven uses a large range of products and even has some of his own. I asked him if he planned to extend his own product range and he told me that it's something he'd considered but has put on the back burner for now. 

Apart from Renovateur Mink Oil he prefers Lord Sheraton as a base cream, Angelus wax polish as a base and Saphir as a full colour.

Steves tool box, filled to the brim with lotions and potions of his trade

Colour Me Good

Speaking of colour, Steven does not only polish shoes but is a recolouring expert, changing an ordinary pair of shoes into a stunning work of art and giving customers a uniquely coloured pair of shoes. Steve very kindly agreed to re-colour a pair of leather brogues which have seen better days. Watch this space for full details of this coming soon. You won't believe the result!


This is a little known art form here in the UK and Steven wants to share this great way of turning your old shoes in to something new and unusual. While he loves re-colouring shoes and is a leader in his field, he calls his company Shoe Shine UK and not Shoe Colour UK as he feels the concept would confuse people.

Steve removes the dirt from my old brogues before he begins his colour magic
Among his clients he includes Harry Redknapp, Rugby player Lawrence Dallaglio, Mike Tyson, and the Dalai Lama who even blessed him on the lobby of the hotel. He has also met The King of Jordan and Prince Harry. He can now add That Dapper Chap to this list.

The Future for Shoe Shine UK

I asked what Steven wants for the company, where he is planning to expand and how. He said his dream is to open a shop in Green Park and sell a range of his own shoes which will be coloured to order.

He may also extend his own range of shoe shine products but he feels the market isn't too good for that at this moment in time.

That Dapper Chap in the famous chair

Shoe Advice From The Expert

Who better to ask shoe advice but a shoe expert. Steven is currently a fan of Edward Green both to wear and to shine. He loves to play with colours on Jeffrey Wests and he is also a fan of Crockett & Jones and Santalum. I asked him his thoughts on Grenson and his disapproving look told he that they are not his favourites. He doesn't like they way they are going stylistically and he really isn't keen on the thick white soles that he is seeing on a few of their range.

The Dapper Chap and The Shoe Whisperer

I asked Steven what five pieces of advice he would have for TDC readers and he shared the following snippets of advice:

  1. Moisturise - Drying out is death for leather. Never let your shoes dry out
  2. Use unvarnished cedarwood shoe trees to soak up any moisture and keep your shoes in shape. Don't bother with the plastic ones, they are pointless.
  3. Don't wear anything but black shoes in the rain. Brown shoes show salt damage more prominently which is like cancer to shoes.
  4. Do not buy the waterproof spray that they try to upsell it to you in the shoe store. its meant for suede only not leather.
  5. Get your shoes polished regularly, add more moisture in warmer weather and more polish to protect in wet weather.

Find The Shoe Whisperer









Mobile: 07941045275
Office:  08454632911

London Hilton on Park Lane, 
22 Park Lane, 
Mayfair, 
London, 
W1K 1BE, 
United Kingdom.

Who's next please? Is it your turn in the chair?

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Wednesday, 8 October 2014

Suit: High End, Mid Range or Budget?

That Dapper Chap shows us his three piece suit and asks if you can tell if it is a high end suit, a mid range one or a budget bargain. Can you tell?


I bought this wool mix suit last year after seeing it in a shop on London's Oxford Street. As soon as I saw it I fell in love with it and after a quick financial assessment I bought it. I did debate not buying the waistcoat as I only just had enough money on me to get it but opted in the end for all three pieces. 

What I'd like you to do, if I may be so bold, is to look at the pictures and read on while thinking how much you would consider paying for this suit. I'll let you know at the end of the piece.

Okay, so the wool content at just 10% isn't very high but it's enough to give it a bit of a bulk and helps make it a much warmer and heavier suit than it would have been without it. On first inspection the fabric looks like a tweed and everyone refers to it as my "tweed suit" when I wear it.


It isn't an elaborate suit, it doesn't have fancy lining or intricate pockets but simple patch pockets. The trousers are half lined to stop you getting itchy thighs from the wool content and having the waistcoat means I can add that extra layer in colder weather or leave the jacket behind when its warmer but still look smart.

I teamed the shirt with a retro style shirt which is covered in embroidered diamonds. The bow tie is an original vintage clip on from the 50's. With the classic styling I pulled out my tan leather brogues and threw on some fairisle socks.


For accessories I chose a few gold coloured bracelets to tie in with the tan of the brogues and my vintage gold watch. The leaf lapel pin and orange pocket square complete the look.






So, you've seen the pictures, you've read my description and where I bought it from. How much would you pay? Did I spend £60, £300 or £900? 

Drum roll please...................

I spent £59!

Yes! This three piece cost me just £30 for the jacket, £17 for the trousers and £12 for the waistcoat. It came from Primark and is part of their range by Butler and Webb.  Did you guess right?

Suit: Primark
Fairisle Socks: Next
Leather Brogues: Burton Menswear
Shirt: ASOS
Bow Tie: Esty
Pocket Square: Ebay
Lapel Pin: Home made
Briefcase: John Rocha
Wallet: Kjøre Project
Bracelets: Various sources

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© That Dapper Chap

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