The Jeff Banks Bespoke Suit - Part 1: Measuring

Craig of That Dapper Chap goes to Savile Row to be measured for a bespoke suit at the new Jeff Banks store

On my way to Jeff Banks Savile Row to be measured and to choose my suit

If you've seen the teaser video on Instagram and my other social media you'll know that I made a recent pilgrimage to Savile Row to meet the guys from Jeff Banks to be measured for a bespoke suit.

This is the first part of a series of posts in which I'll take you through the measuring process, the options available to you, the fitting, and the final suit. I'll let you know all about my experience and also dispel some myths along the way.

Steve and I discuss the various options for my suit

The Brand New Topman Store

Craig of That Dapper Chap visits the brand new Topman store in London's Knightsbridge on its opening day

The brand new Topman store in London's Knightsbridge

I was super excited to be invited to the opening day of the brand spanking new Topman store at 70 Brompton Road in London.

After seeing the people at Tom Ford in Harrods it was just a skip across the road to see exactly what the new store had to offer. Situated in the lower ground floor of the existing Topshop, which has stood there for a while now, the guys at Topman told me that men would often come out of Harrods and into Topshop while on a shopping spree and were disappointed to find only womenswear on offer. So, not wanting to miss a trick a new Topman opened it's doors.

Chester Barrie Sponsors the 40th Laurence Olivier Awards

Monday night saw A listers and fashionistas alike taking their rightful places at this years Laurence Olivier Awards. Celebrating it's 40th year, a lot of the guests, nominees and even presenters were dressed immaculately in attire by Chester Barrie.

The Tailored Short - Office wear or beach wear?

That Dapper Chap explores the concept of the tailored short as office wear and gives us some do's and don'ts.

It's a debate which splits opinion, should guys be able to wear shorts to the office? Men argue that as the weather gets warmer that the ladies have more options available to them, and that what they do have available is more acceptable within the office environment. In short (no pun intended) they are jealous.

The short suit. Tailored and expertly accessorised

THE DEBATE

The whole smart casual thing has never sat well with me. It could work, but it's a case of 'give them an inch and they'll take a mile'. The minute you say 'smart casual' a lot of guys see it as an opportunity to dress like they're about to go and fix up the garden. Faded jeans with torn hems and a polo shirt is not 'smart' by any stretch of anyones deluded imagination, even if "it does have a collar" Grrrrrrr.

Every summer I hear the same groans "I wish we could wear shorts" Why? Does the air conditioning not keep you cool enough at your desk? Are your legs that great that they must be shown to the world? Do summer cotton or linen trousers not combat the incredibly average summer temperatures that we experience for the two days of summer we have here in the UK? Come on guys, we're not that close to the equator! 

It's all down to the fact that the majority of men have little desire to make an effort to look good, dress smartly and evoke an image of professionalism.

A tailored suit with a crisp white shirt and tie. Getting it right.

TAILORED SHORTS

Having said all this I do own and I do wear tailored shorts. I much prefer these to the standard nylon, drawstring sports shorts that 'grace' our streets as soon as the temperature rises above ten degrees, and burst into flames the second they meet a naked flame. Sports shorts should be kept for, you guessed it, SPORT. If you don't do sport, don't wear them! Have some self respect.

Me in my pink tailored shorts, floral shirt and brogues

HOW NOT TO DO IT

A friend and colleague approached me recently and asked if I'd seen an article in a local newspaper. His wry smile made it clear that I needed to take a look. Upon seeing the piece my immediate thought was that it was a joke, honestly, but reading on I realised that it was a serious piece, and I admit to be taken aback by the images that went with the it. Prepare yourself!

The article, like this, is about the possibility of wearing tailored shorts for work. Great. Lets debate, lets discuss our opinions and reasoning, lets agree to disagree if we have to. But one thing that I will NOT agree on is how they have attempted to present a positive example of how this look should be styled. Are you ready? Grab a cushion to hide behind as it's a real horror show!

The gents in their tailored shorts. Image property of EADT

A closer look at the shorts. Image property of EADT

The first thing I want to say now is that the shorts themselves are great! Great colours and great cuts. I like them and would wear them. the shorts are not the problem here.

In the article, found HERE, it states that the stylist in the store where they embarked on their fashion faux pas, questioned not only their credibility but also their shoes! I'm not surprised! He is clearly a gentleman of taste. Shoes aside (which, yes, I do have major issues with) it's the socks that make me want to pluck out my eyes with a blunt pencil. What is it about British guys and their bloody socks!? We(British men)have been ridiculed for years about our decidedly dogmatic approach to frightful footwear, particularly the tendency to wear socks and sandals. The above styling is just one step (a really really small step) away from that! Don't ask me what that's all about, I have no idea!

Office appropriate, stylish and sockless. Another example of how to get it right

Losing the socks may go some way to making the look more acceptable to me, but we also have the braces issue (yes, for me it's an issue) Again, I like and do wear braces, button on of course. Maybe it was a sartorial challenge, a concept testing and boundary breaking approach that they were after. On the other hand maybe it was just four blokes messing around in a clothing store, like kids at the dressing up box. 

It doesn't work. If I'm wrong, please tell me. leave a comment below. I don't claim to know everything, or that I am right all of the time. Sometimes I get it wrong, but when I do I certainly won't post pictures of it in a daily newspaper. Slow news day? maybe?

Another example of how this look works really well

HOW TO DO IT RIGHT

There are few fundamental rules (or suggestions) that I'd like to bring your attention to when opting for an office appropriate look with shorts. Firstly, don't wear socks and please, please don't wear rubber based slip on shoes or anything that fastens with velcro like the guys from my local rag! Go for a soft leather brogue or a loafer. Both are very classic styles and lend themselves really well to a smart look with shorts.

Great use of colour and perfect for the office

A belt will make the look smarter, add detail and negate the need for braces. Braces and shorts are not a good combination and you run the risk of being split in two and offending passersby with an unsightly and ugly bulging camel toe. Trousers offer some traction at the knee and calf to prevent them sliding up too badly. Shorts don't. Beware.

Shorts, blazer, belt and brogues and great combination

The light coloured jacket gives a real summery look

Two dapper gents, perfectly attired in their shorts

A great use of bold colour, making a statement

Another dapper summer look

 

Nick bateman looking great in this beige summer short suit and bow tie

A well fitted shirt will work wonders, long sleeved and well ironed in a poly cotton mix to keep the look professional. A tie will look great but keep it on trend, maybe knitted and square ended. Maybe something with a preppy feel. Think Ralph Lauren.

I wouldn't be tempted to wear a waistcoat with shorts, as like the braces it's just wont compliment the look. However, a matching jacket or smart sports coat, like the one below will. 

Perfect for the summer and smart enough for the office

The short suit, available from Next

Next are currently offering a few suits where you are able to buy the jacket, trousers and shorts all to match, this is a great option. The navy textured short suit above is available HERE for £105

The light stone, cotton suit below is also available in four pieces, trousers, jacket, waistcoat and shorts so you can mix and match at will. Check it out HERE

The stone cotton jacket from Next

The matching stone cotton shorts, from Next

So, it can be done and it can be done well. While you've never see me walking in to the office wearing shorts I won't hold it against you if you do, especially if you do it well. If however you wear horrid shoes, black socks and clip on braces with a dreadful tie, don't ever expect me to speak to you again!

THANKS FOR READING!

The Latest Collection From Darren Kennedy

That Dapper Chap shares the latest collection by 'Man of the Moment' and fashion icon Darren Kennedy

What a couple of years its been for style icon Darren Kennedy! Not content with presenting on the UK's top rating TV show, he has made critically acclaimed documentaries and landed a role with the Telegraph writing their menswear column. 

2013 saw him win the VIP Style Award and also launch his first menswear collection in collaboration with master tailor Louis Copeland. And things just keep getting better for the 30 something Irish gent, as little did I know when we met at an event earlier this year, that this weekend would see him making his debut on the UK X-Factor discussing the contestants style, and launching his third collection of incredibly sharp suits, again working directly with the highly talented Mr Copeland.

Darren models his Burgundy Brushed Wool Overcoat €850

This latest collection consists of a small range of well thought out, stylish and sharp suits and two overcoats, one in burgundy being this seasons most sought after colour.

Darren is clearly a fan of a double breasted suit and is often seen sporting one at various events and photo shoots. So, of course his collection was going to include at least one and he doesn't disappoint by giving us the 'George’ suit, a beautiful burgundy, double-breasted 3-piece suit and my absolute favourite from the new collection with is double breasted waistcoat completing a most dapper look.

The 'George' double breasted three piece suit

As well as grey, blues play a pig part in the collection and the Ferguson suit delights the eye with its bright blue hue. Again with a double breasted waistcoat the suits gives a very sophisticated look and a clean sharp silhouette. The 'Ferguson’ is named after Irish engineer and inventor Harry Ferguson, and this is the theme throughout the collection.

The beautiful 'Ferguson' three piece suit. €1,180 / £930

Darren clearly wanted to create a top end product here and has made a point of only using the finest fabrics. Luxury is a key word here and with soft flannels which will keep out the chills on our daily commute during the coming months. Adding a fine coat will add that additional layer and Darren has given us a choice of two.

The Italian wool herringbone coat and the 'Tom'
windowpane check suit

The first of these coats is made in an Italian black and white herringbone wool fabric and has a contrasting black velvet collar. Seen above with the 'Tom' double breasted suit in a stunning grey windowpane check €890 / £820. The second of the coats and one that's now on my wish list is the burgundy brushed wool overcoat as seen below  with the the 'Holland’ three piece suit in grey & burgundy check flannel.

Other suits in the collection include the 'Brendan’, a blue flannel 2-piece suit and the 'Ernest’ which is a navy box check flannel 2-piece Suit.

Talking about his latest venture Darren said, “Our Spring Summer DK x LC ‘14 collection went down a storm both here and in the UK. I got a chance to wear every suit from the collection and the reaction I received was phenomenal. I feel confident that our new Autumn Winter collection is our strongest to date. Both Louis and I have put a lot of work in to this collection, making use of the highest quality Italian fabrics, our combined experience and knowledge to create what I believe is, the quintessential must have winter wardrobe…each piece is a future classic in its own right"

The 'Ernest' navy box check suit

FIND DARREN KENNEDY

Darren's Website

Twitter

Facebook

Flickr

You Tube

THANKS FOR READING!

Introducing Marc Wallace

That Dapper Chap pays a visit to Marc Wallace in London's leafy Parsons Green and tells us about their new exciting store.

As I arrived via tube train at London's Parsons Green, I was greeted by a very leafy and quaint part of London that I'd never been to before. With a very 'villagey' feel and its traditional village green surrounded by quaint independent shops, bars and eateries this is certainly a part of London that I'd happily revisit

The Marc Wallace shop in New Kings Road

Suits perfectly tailored in a range of great colours

Inside the Marc Wallace shop

About Marc Wallace

After launching his first collection in 2000 Marc Wallace has since become renowned worldwide for his handmade suits and luxury accessories; Marc’s passion to challenge the direction of menswear is evident in the label’s fresh and original style. Through Marc’s hands on approach, collaborating with skilled artisans on limited edition pieces, the label continues to drive forward with inspiration and design at it’s heart.

The stunning limited edition floral suit. Not for the shy and retiring

A selection of contrasting fabric wool blazers 

All dressed up but nowhere to go. A traditional Marc Wallace look

The shop front was all ready for Christmas when I arrived, dressed as 'The Three Kings' complete with vintage hobby horses, it really was a delight to behold. On entering I was greeted by Drew as Marcs time was being taken up elsewhere and it was unfortunate that I wasn't able to say hello on this occasion. 

The shop itself is an eclectic design, mixing new and vintage pieces including old velvet covered cinema chairs and accessories. It is perfectly considered and very individual, just as your bespoke tailored suit will be.

While Drew tended to a client, discussing button variations and details on linings I toured the shop and snapped a few images.

The interior of the Marc Wallace shop in New Kings Road

Having worked with pop bands and stars of sport and television, most recently EastEnders stars, Danny Dyre and Jake Wood, Marc Wallace really has established himself as a 'must wear' designer creating tailor made suits for the noted and famous in addition to that special suit for your wedding day. 

Danny Dyer wears a stunning Marc Wallace design

From the 'English Gent' range of suits and accessories

The must have velvet blazer. Which colour is your favourite?

Marc Wallace only uses the finest quality fabrics from the UK and Italy, including silks, tweed and mohair, and he currently has a beautiful selection of sumptuous velvet blazers in stock, perfect for your New Year celebrations.

The luxurious velvet blazers all lined up

Vintage charm and accessories only add
 to that individual Marc Wallace experience

Great tailoring and contemporary colours

In addition to suits and blazers Marc Wallace can also fit you up with shirts, ties, underwear and all sorts of accessories both new and vintage, allowing you to add a very personal piece to your look.

Colourful socks will add interest and individualism to your look

The range of accessories at Marc Wallace

The New Marc Wallace Shop

As well as the shop in New Kings Road Marc Wallace also has a shop in Saville Row where he runs an appointment only system. I can now reveal that Marc has just opened a brand new shop in Bath in Broad Street.

Marc already runs a studio in George Street in Bath, for clients to visit by appointment for tailored suits and the new shop will be displaying his latest designs for all to buy, including suits, jackets, shirts and ties, as well as many accessories.

The new clothes shop in Bath has been a project Marc Wallace has been planning for a long time and he’s delighted it’s finally about to open to the public.

Bath, like London, is a very fashion conscious city and the Marc Wallace ranges are for people who want to step out and be noticed for their style. The brand has a distinct look that stands for quality.

I wish Marc and his team all the very best for the new venture and hope to return in the New Year to check out his spring/summer collection so watch this space!

Find marc Wallace

     

Yours truly. A Marc Wallace selfie

THANKS FOR READING!