Monday, 20 June 2016

London Collections: Men - Day 1

Craig of That Dapper Chap takes us to the shows and presentations on day one of this seasons London Collections: Men



I can't believe that it's been six months since the last London Collections: Men. With new designers and new locations I was excited to once again be a part of it.

My LC:M started on Thursday night with the Noose & Monkey pre LC:M party where they showed off their new collection. Check out my blog post on it HERE

So, on Friday morning we rose from our slumber, enjoyed a hearty breakfast (you just never know when you're going to get to eat again at LC:M!) and jumped on the tube, ready for the opening event: The Topman catwalk show.

TOPMAN

wearing my Topman stone linen double breasted suit, I made my way to my seat. The lights dimmed and video screen on the ceiling tilted and shone light onto the catwalk. Time for the show.


This collection for SS17 was a celebration of Britain and its beautiful seaside towns. With a nostalgic vibe there were influences from the teddy boy and mod era. The 80's vibe continues too but given a sharp British twist and we saw a slim, narrow silhouette.
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Thursday, 4 February 2016

London Collections: Men - Day 3

Craig of That Dapper Chap takes us around his final day at London Collections: Men and shows us what Sunday had to offer.






Belstaff


So, on Sunday I had a bit of a lay-in. My first show was Belstaff which saw me make my way to The Ewer Street Arches for a frosty affair for their 'Heading North' presentation.

The spirit of adventure reigned and we were transported into an arctic expedition where the fur lined coats and thick sweaters were displayed against backdrops of a snow capped mountainous terrain. 

#HeadingNorth with Belsfatt

Belstaff gave us fur, lots of fur

The new Belstaff collection 


Stylish and functional outerwear for the adventurous among us

Models in snow white ready to explore

Ready for whatever the weather has to offer

Turnbull & Asser


Making my way now from Arches to vaults I headed off to the Turnbull & Asser presentation.

Established in 1885 Turnbull & Asser of London's famous Jermyn Street everything that they create is made entirely in England.

Showing beautifully tailored suits, jackets and coats in stunning patterns and checks they cater for the gentleman who isn't afraid to stand out from the crowd. This was a breathtaking collection and one I truly enjoyed.



A stunning double breasted wool blazer


Wonderful patterns in sumptuous fabrics


A truly statement piece not for the shy and retiring


Great jackets to suit any occasion

Models wear the new Turnbull And Asser collection

Classic styling the Turnbull & Asser way


Baartmans And Siegel


From classic gentleman's attire to something a little more cool and funky as I left Turnbull and Asser for another delightful duo: Baartmans And Siegel.

The 1970's theme really shone through this collection, with heavy, wide collared coats trimmed with fur in camel coloured wool and suede jackets and trousers.

Add in a few roll neck sweaters under pinstripe tailoring and the collection is complete.

My favorite piece from the collection

Pinstripes and fur collars create that 70's look

more pinstripes and a peak of leopard print fur


A subtle pinstriped bomber jacket 

It's that coat again, teamed with classic camel coloured trousers

More pinstripes in the new Baartmans and Siegel collection 

Chester Barrie


Next we have a complete change of scene as we move to the Chester Barrie presentation and the Palm Court at the stunning Waldorf Hotel.

This season their top notch tailoring was set against a red carpet backdrop. As models milled on the red carpet, suited and booted head to toe in Chester Barrie's wonderful new collection, guests mingled and watched award ceremonies which were displayed on a huge screen.

As always the collection was immaculate with coats and suiting for day and for the evening.

Models on the red carpet sporting the new Chester Barrie collection

A stylish and perfectly tailored suit in subtle grey check

Evening wear and occasion wear were the centerpieces of the show



The new Chester Barrie collection at the Waldorf Hotel

Perfect for that black tie event or an evening at the opera

Stars accept their awards on the big screen


Duchamp


Staying with tailoring, Duchamp were next on the itinerary. Set in the Grand Ballroom at the beautiful Rosewood Hotel in High Holborn, Duchamp gave us casual, contemporary and formal tailoring. 

The pieces had a lot of personality, with winter florals and tonal layers teamed with scarves and silk shirts.

There was also an artistic element to the collection with printed painterly effects and pencil sketch prints, which added a modern and individual twist to classic tailoring.

The new AW16 collection from Duchamp

Colour, pattern and texture reign supreme for AW16




Stunning winter floral prints won the day for me

Some more casual looks from Duchamp for AW16

That floral jacket has my name on it

So, that was the end of this season London Collections: Men for me. Unfortunately I had to miss Monday's shows due to other commitments, but what I did see I thoroughly enjoyed and the British Fashion Council did themselves proud once more. Roll on June!

Thanks for stopping by! Don't be a stranger!


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Tuesday, 19 January 2016

London Collections: Men - Day 2

Craig of That Dapper Chap takes us around day two of London Collections: Men and shows us what Saturday had to offer





E.Tautz


After a good nights sleep in my Uncle Steves spare bed I woke fresh and ready for day 2 and made my way from leafy Hanwell directly to the E.Tautz catwalk show on the Strand.

This is one show that I was really looking forward to as Patrick Grant is one of my style idols and he didn't disappoint.


I was disappointed however by the fact that I ended up standing right at the back and having to crane my neck to see even a smidge of the great stuff he put out.

For me the coats ruled the day as did the great range of fabrics that Patrick gave us including Donegal tweed, cashmere, Shetland wool and leather.


E.Tautz accessorised with some great scarves
Another great coat and more cool neckwear


Classic styling in great fabrics
I love the wide collar on this coat and the Christian Louboutin shoes
An incredible checked double breasted coat


Berthold


So disappointed by mor poor positioning at the E.Tautz show I left down hearted but determined to make sure that next time I would get a better view.  

Next for me was Berthold so I trekked back to Swiss Church in Endell Street and was one of the first people there. Yes, front row! No jostling, no elbows in the ribs.

While slightly out of the That dapper Chap comfort zone, I did appreciate the shapes, cuts and styling that Berthold gave us. 

Named 'Drowning' the presentation gave us sculptural qualities in supple rubber, coated cottons and other robust textiles, all designed to protect the wearer from the elements.


The new Berthold collection at LC:M
A twist on the traditional yellow fishermans coat
Heavy scarves and thick jersey sweaters protect the wearer


classic and wearable items from Berthold
A nod to the life jackets in this cropped coat
High necklines and ling coats in the 'Drowning' collection


Lou Dalton


I didn't realise I was a fan of Lou Dalton's work until I saw this show. Lou's Father was a Teddy Boy and there are clear influences in this collection, particularly in the oversized check trousers and jackets.

Described as "thought provoking and considered" Lou's contemporary classical tailoring has won her many awards and its easy to see why.

With a range in River Island and a Thunderbirds themed collection under her belt it seems Lou is becoming one of the best female designers in London.

The check fabrics was a highlight of Lou Dalton's show
fashionable and functional style from Lou Dalton


Another great jacket that I'd personally like in my wardrobe
Maybe not That Dapper Chap style but there's something about this I really like
It's that check fabric again, this time teamed with a great camel coloured coat


Oliver Spencer


After a quick coffee and a bite to eat it was back to the Strand for Oliver Spencer. Another of my favorite designers Oliver is a self taught tailor and started his career from a small market stall in London's Portobello Road.

Oliver Spencer gave us one of my favorite collection of relaxed and contemporary formal pieces. Great jackets and waistcoats teamed with unstructured trousers in stripes and checks.

Knitwear was also showcased with many of the models wearing staple items for the coming season.

A beautiful jacket and waistcoat worn in a contemporary styling
Modern sophistication from Oliver Spencer
I love everything about this look


Another awesome look from Oliver Spencer
This patterned coat over a plain grey suit made my day
Model Richard Biedul wearing some very cool knitwear


Matthew Miller


Matthew Miller was up next on the That Dapper Chap itinerary. remembering my positioning at the E.Tautz catwalk I did my best to get a spot with a better view and I'm pleased with the few shots that I got.

With the theme of 'Nouveau Riche' as it's inspiration the AW16 collection from matthew Miller gave us lots of black in addition to a contrast of hand-painted oil on canvas with their 'David & Goliath' coat.

Shapes hailing from a forgotten historical era were given updated silhouettes and both biker and bomber jackets and graced the catwalk.


Unstructured shapes, belted for a clean silhouette


Matthew Miller monochrome 
The biker jacket the Matthew Miller way
Hand painted oil on canvas


Thomas Pink


Finally, after a day of running around London, feet hurting and back aching I made my way to the Thomas Pink presentation. Always a riot of colour and pattern this show is one that I always look forward to seeing.

from bar to botanical to block colour, Thomas Pink is always treat for the eyes. 

Taking inspiration from the enchantment and hideaways offered by the British countryside and coastline, industrial and architectural elements were hinted at and enjoyed by the crowd. 

I always enjoy the Thomas Pink show, not only do I genuinely love the collection but the Williams Chase gin cocktails helped me enjoy it just that little bit more.

The new Thomas Pink Collection at LC:M
Suited & booted in grey check suit and pink bow tie
Rich burgundy and blues for AW16

Its all about colour for Thomas pink, it shouldn't work but it really does!
Colour on colour on colour a feast for the eyes
I really love this blue shirt with its architectural pattern
Maybe not for TDC but this is one statement shirt not to be ignored

So, with a busy day two under my belt, tired, weary but inspired I made my way back to Hanwell where a warm welcome, a hot meal and a comfortable bed waited and boy did I need all three.


Thanks for taking time out to read the blog. You're welcome back any time.



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