London Collections: Men - Day 1

Craig of That Dapper Chap takes us to the shows and presentations on day one of this seasons London Collections: Men

I can't believe that it's been six months since the last London Collections: Men. With new designers and new locations I was excited to once again be a part of it.

My LC:M started on Thursday night with the Noose & Monkey pre LC:M party where they showed off their new collection. Check out my blog post on it HERE

So, on Friday morning we rose from our slumber, enjoyed a hearty breakfast (you just never know when you're going to get to eat again at LC:M!) and jumped on the tube, ready for the opening event: The Topman catwalk show.

TOPMAN

wearing my Topman stone linen double breasted suit, I made my way to my seat. The lights dimmed and video screen on the ceiling tilted and shone light onto the catwalk. Time for the show.

This collection for SS17 was a celebration of Britain and its beautiful seaside towns. With a nostalgic vibe there were influences from the teddy boy and mod era. The 80's vibe continues too but given a sharp British twist and we saw a slim, narrow silhouette.

London Collections: Men - Day 2

Craig of That Dapper Chap takes us around day two of London Collections: Men and shows us what Saturday had to offer

E.Tautz

After a good nights sleep in my Uncle Steves spare bed I woke fresh and ready for day 2 and made my way from leafy Hanwell directly to the E.Tautz catwalk show on the Strand.

This is one show that I was really looking forward to as Patrick Grant is one of my style idols and he didn't disappoint.

I was disappointed however by the fact that I ended up standing right at the back and having to crane my neck to see even a smidge of the great stuff he put out.

For me the coats ruled the day as did the great range of fabrics that Patrick gave us including Donegal tweed, cashmere, Shetland wool and leather.

E.Tautz accessorised with some great scarves

Another great coat and more cool neckwear

Classic styling in great fabrics

I love the wide collar on this coat and the Christian Louboutin shoes

An incredible checked double breasted coat

Berthold

So disappointed by mor poor positioning at the E.Tautz show I left down hearted but determined to make sure that next time I would get a better view.  

Next for me was Berthold so I trekked back to Swiss Church in Endell Street and was one of the first people there. Yes, front row! No jostling, no elbows in the ribs.

While slightly out of the That dapper Chap comfort zone, I did appreciate the shapes, cuts and styling that Berthold gave us. 

Named 'Drowning' the presentation gave us sculptural qualities in supple rubber, coated cottons and other robust textiles, all designed to protect the wearer from the elements.

The new Berthold collection at LC:M

A twist on the traditional yellow fishermans coat

Heavy scarves and thick jersey sweaters protect the wearer

classic and wearable items from Berthold

A nod to the life jackets in this cropped coat

High necklines and ling coats in the 'Drowning' collection

Lou Dalton

I didn't realise I was a fan of Lou Dalton's work until I saw this show. Lou's Father was a Teddy Boy and there are clear influences in this collection, particularly in the oversized check trousers and jackets.

Described as "thought provoking and considered" Lou's contemporary classical tailoring has won her many awards and its easy to see why.

With a range in River Island and a Thunderbirds themed collection under her belt it seems Lou is becoming one of the best female designers in London.

The check fabrics was a highlight of Lou Dalton's show

fashionable and functional style from Lou Dalton

Another great jacket that I'd personally like in my wardrobe

Maybe not That Dapper Chap style but there's something about this I really like

It's that check fabric again, this time teamed with a great camel coloured coat

Oliver Spencer

After a quick coffee and a bite to eat it was back to the Strand for Oliver Spencer. Another of my favorite designers Oliver is a self taught tailor and started his career from a small market stall in London's Portobello Road.

Oliver Spencer gave us one of my favorite collection of relaxed and contemporary formal pieces. Great jackets and waistcoats teamed with unstructured trousers in stripes and checks.

Knitwear was also showcased with many of the models wearing staple items for the coming season.

A beautiful jacket and waistcoat worn in a contemporary styling

Modern sophistication from Oliver Spencer

I love everything about this look

Another awesome look from Oliver Spencer

This patterned coat over a plain grey suit made my day

Model Richard Biedul wearing some very cool knitwear

Matthew Miller

Matthew Miller was up next on the That Dapper Chap itinerary. remembering my positioning at the E.Tautz catwalk I did my best to get a spot with a better view and I'm pleased with the few shots that I got.

With the theme of 'Nouveau Riche' as it's inspiration the AW16 collection from matthew Miller gave us lots of black in addition to a contrast of hand-painted oil on canvas with their 'David & Goliath' coat.

Shapes hailing from a forgotten historical era were given updated silhouettes and both biker and bomber jackets and graced the catwalk.

Unstructured shapes, belted for a clean silhouette

Matthew Miller monochrome 

The biker jacket the Matthew Miller way

Hand painted oil on canvas

Thomas Pink

Finally, after a day of running around London, feet hurting and back aching I made my way to the Thomas Pink presentation. Always a riot of colour and pattern this show is one that I always look forward to seeing.

from bar to botanical to block colour, Thomas Pink is always treat for the eyes. 

Taking inspiration from the enchantment and hideaways offered by the British countryside and coastline, industrial and architectural elements were hinted at and enjoyed by the crowd. 

I always enjoy the Thomas Pink show, not only do I genuinely love the collection but the Williams Chase gin cocktails helped me enjoy it just that little bit more.

The new Thomas Pink Collection at LC:M

Suited & booted in grey check suit and pink bow tie

Rich burgundy and blues for AW16

Its all about colour for Thomas pink, it shouldn't work but it really does!

Colour on colour on colour a feast for the eyes

I really love this blue shirt with its architectural pattern

Maybe not for TDC but this is one statement shirt not to be ignored

So, with a busy day two under my belt, tired, weary but inspired I made my way back to Hanwell where a warm welcome, a hot meal and a comfortable bed waited and boy did I need all three.

Thanks for taking time out to read the blog. You're welcome back any time.

London Collections: Men - Day 1

Craig of That Dapper Chap attends London Collections: Men as an accredited blogger and takes us through the events of day 1

Once again all the build up and anticipation of the largest menswear event in london comes to fruition and on Friday 8th January London Collections: Men once again opened its doors and showcased all that the British menswear industry has to offer.

This season saw me with a packed itinerary so I unfortunately had to choose which shows I wanted to see more as a lot overlapped or were logistically impossible to reach in the time between shows.

Stylists, press, editors and bloggers line up to sign in to this seasons LCM

After signing in at the stunning Victoria House in Southampton Row, this seasons LC:M hub, I took my official book and lanyard, pinned my badge to my lapel and made my way to the Barbour presentation. 

Barbour

Barbour never disappoint. The inherent quality comes through in every piece and they offered us everything that we'll need for AW16: heavy knitwear, their iconic wax jackets and a collection of great shirts and accessories.

Very accessible and easy to wear I've been a Barbour fan for a while and I really like the new collection.

Chunky textured sweaters continue to be a staple items

Beautifully tailored shirts in some great fabrics

Casual styling by Barbour to keep out the cold

The latest style Barbour coat

The classic Barbour wax jacket

Another great collection from Barbour

Cottweiler

After a quick coffee break I made my way to Marylebone to see the Cottweiler show. Designers Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty showed us a range of intelligent and futuristic designs in metallic fabrics and sheepskin-like woollens.

Moody models in fields of wheat from Cottweiler

Futuristic designs in metallic fabrics

Fashion folk flocking to see the new Cottweiler collection

Modern fabrics in relaxed design

Impressive designs with a real edge

The new Cottweiler collection

Universal Works

Leaving the Cottweiler show it was a hop and a skip over to Blandford Street to see what Universal Works had to offer. I've always enjoyed the Universal Works show and they always offer up an interesting concept.

This season was no different and we walked in to a virtual fairground, complete with 90's dance tracks and 'all the fun of the fair' Guests enjoyed mushy peas with mint sauce and popcorn while we perused the collection.

Unstructured, relaxed and comfortable clothing for the cool and youthful won the day, and they again showed a very British and very wearable collection that could be enjoyed by anyone.

Time for the Funfair with niversal Works

Prizes for everyone at the Universal Works funfair

Relaxed but stylish

The classic funfair goldfish, its all in the details

Casual footwear from Universal Works

I enjoyed the mushy peas and they certainly filled a void in my stomach

Unstructured and easy to wear

The new Universal Works collection

Private White V.C.

So leaving the sights and sounds of the fairground behind I legged it, in the rain, over to Mayfair to the Private White V.C. store on Duke Street.

Upon entering the store I was immediately welcomed by Brutus the Bulldog who took an instant liking to my trousers, pressing his nose against my calf and following me around the store. Apparently he likes the smell of my cats!

Private White never fail to impress and I was already converted way before I stepped over the threshold. The nod to classic wartime tailoring didn't go unmissed. Designer Nick Ashley continues to offer us some great pieces and I very much need to get some in my armoury.

Arriving at he Private White V.C. store in Mayfair

Classic styling from Private White V.C.

The new Private White V.C. collection

My new buddy Brutus

I'm in love with this heavy shearling collar coat

rails of clothing from the new collection waiting to be browsed

The models take their place in the store

More elegant clothing from Private White V.C.

I managed to snap designer Nick Ashley at the event

Guests mingle, drink cocktails and enjoy the canapes 

So after a fun filled day with very little to eat, cold and slightly wet, I called it a day and made my way to my London home where I had set up base for the weekend. Day one was a success on many levels. I met some great people, reconnected with my 'LCM Buddies' and saw some great menswear.

Roll on day two I thought. That was a success too and I'll report on that very soon so watch this space.

Thanks for taking time out to read this. Pop back again soon!