Saturday, 21 June 2014

Love For Lutwyche


That Dapper Chap meets Tony Lutwyche and views his SS15 collection

The Lutwyche Bespoke SS15 preview

As we all know London Collections: Men has seen another successful few days in the UK capital. Spread over various locations, this year has seen another wide selection of brands and designers showcasing their latest collections and offering a preview of AW14 and SS15.

I was lucky enough to be invited to one of the many showcases at a most luxurious location. The event in question was the SS15 collection of Lutwyche Bespoke at the glorious Rosewood Hotel in London.  A beautiful location for an equally beautiful collection.


The Rosewood Hotel

The location for the collection was the ballroom of the sumptuous and stunningly appointed neoclassical Rosewood Hotel. Found in High Holborn in Londons West End, its intricate wrought iron gates lead you into the Edwardian court yard where you are instantly filled with nostalgia, taking you back to a much more more elegant era.

The main entrance
Built in 1914 and designed by H Percy Monckton it was originally the home of a large Assurance company. This listed building is packed to the rafters with magnificent features which haven't gone unnoticed by film companies and fashionistas alike who have both taken advantage of this stunning backdrop.

Inside the hotel
Sumptuous and elegant deco style interiors
The incredible ballroom entrance

Lutwyche Bespoke

Relatively new to the Bespoke scene, Lutwyche are fast gaining a reputation for elegance and quality. Using only the best quality natural fabrics, which are chosen exclusively for their tailoring, each piece is cut by hand before being constructed into one of the masterpieces that we saw at the preview.

The Clifford Street store in London



I was allowed to bring a guest to the preview, so contacted my buddy and fellow blogger Viktor Man of The man And Glam blog. Meeting at Holborn station we caught up on current events over coffee and set off both sporting bow ties and went sockless in loafers (boy, did I regret that later in the night. Thanks again for the socks Viktor!) 


Arriving at the venue we were escorted down a handsome staircase where we were seamlessly handed over to the official photographer to have our pictures taken. Snaps taken and a chilled glass of a fruity white wine in hand we were introduced to Freddie Johnson of London PR company APR Communications, he in turn introduced us to the collection and to the man himself: Tony Lutwyche.


Posing by the Lutwyche backdrop
Guests enjoying the event


The collection

The collection was stunning, each piece perfectly cut, crafted and fitted to its mannequin before being placed on its own podium and spotlit for maximum effect. While the noted parties, bloggers and the suited and booted sipped wine, nibbled on a delicious range of canapés and discussed the intricacies and design elements which went into every piece, I found myself inexplicably drawn to a truly stunning raincoat.

The red silk raincoat. 55% silk, 45% mohair. £4,050


The close up shows the grain of the fabric and the simple design


A closer view of the red raincoats clean sharp lines
Guests at the event; By invitation only
Made from 55% waterproof silk and 45% mohair this raincoat is the epitome of elegance. retailing at £4,050 its clean lines, sharp edges and vivid colour make for a dynamic but very wearable every day piece. Not a shy and retiring edition to the collection it was the talking point of the event and demanded attention from everyone in the room. Little did I know that it had a challenger for most talked about piece, for it had a contemporary in vivid yellow.

The contender for most talked about

Just as commanding and rightly placed at opposite ends of the ballroom so as not to distract from one another, the yellow raincoat is too made from rainproof silk. 

For me the yellow wins. Is this because I have seen yellow raincoats in the past and it is therefore more familiar? That traditional hooded fishermans coat? (not that this is that by any stretch of the imagination but the association is there) Is it because everybody wants to see some sunshine on a dull rainy day which makes it instantly more acceptable? Maybe its because the red of its brother spells danger and is an unadulterated demander of attention in a more abrupt way and therefore a more fearful edition.

While still bright and extrovert in its nature I feel the yellow has a more subtle look, more understated maybe. Either way, both are marvellous examples of an everyday item that is usually ignored and thrown over the backs of battered chairs in cafes while its owner grabs an Americano and a goats cheese and basil Panini between meetings. One thing is for sure, the gentleman who wears either of these is both confident and exudes class, maybe even a little arrogant, and for good reason, because he is at the top of his game and reserves the right to be so. I also don't think he eats goats cheese.

Beautiful blazers displayed on their podiums
The silver multi check suit. Half lined, 90% wool, 10% silk £3,510


The stunning dark navy, basket weave dinner jacket 55% silk 45% wool £2,850



A beautiful double breasted blazer oozes understated chic
Teal herringbone jacket. half lined. 63% linen, 19% wool, 18% silk. £2,490



The dapper Mr Man, camera ready




The formal wear alcove. Silver sharkskin morning suit (right) £6,750

Blue jacket with cream windowpane check. Fully Lined. 55% wool, 5% silk. £2,940
Blue jacket with red windowpane check. 43% wool, 32% silk, 25% linen. £2,490


Tony Lutwyche

After another glass of wine and some delicious canapes, which included quails eggs, asparagus tips and miniature sausage and mash and after conversations with various attendees, which included a young American lady who trades in 120 feet yachts for Edmiston & Co, and a charming lady who came self described as a "hack for the Wall Street Journal" We sought out Freddie again for that introduction to the man himself.

Tony Lutwyche
Born of good stock and from a family whose name is listed in the doomsday book, Tony was destined for success. Serving in the military he saw active service and rose to the rank of Major before becoming a tailor in 2000.

As a shrewd business man he sees the benefits of investing in great talent, and is passionate about nurturing it. So much so that he is creating new apprenticeships in the tailoring industry. This is an admirable venture for a gentleman who could simply focus on his own success but who wants to establish new expertise in his field.

Sporting one of his own blazers (well you would wouldn't you) and a pair of salmon chinos, Tony was down to earth, polite and friendly. Very much in demand, we had a brief but interesting conversation about the Lutwyche brand the collection before he was delicately whisked away to talk to other guests

There was only one thing that annoyed me about the entire evening and that was that I didn't think to ask for a photograph with him and I'm hoping that I'll get one while viewing the AW15 collection, should I be lucky enough to be invited again. Time will tell.


The stunning staircase


Find Lutwyche Bespoke

Lutwyche Bespoke
15 Clifford St
London
W1S 4JZ

Email: Info@Lutwyche.co.uk


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Wednesday, 18 June 2014

A Twist Of Lime

I must be getting old! One late night in London for LC:M and I'm tired for two days! What's that about? I have been busy preparing a piece for the blog about my time at the Lutwyche SS15 preview but I'm waiting for photographs from my fellow attendee Viktor Mann of The Man And Glam Blog. So watch this space.



Today's look was entirely created around this tie! It's one of four that I bought while on a trip to Leeds. Instagrams Oneyounggent had one and I liked it so much that I went on a hunt for it, but I didn't expect to find four different designs!



I picked the lime colour out of the tie as an accent for today's look and pulled out a lime coloured bracelet, lapel pin, pocket square, nato band for my watch, socks and even laces for my blue suede brogues.














Shoes: Savile Row
Socks: Topman
Chinos: Next
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Primark
Blazer: Topman
Bag: Next
Watch: Timex Weekender
Bracelets: Handmade
Tie Clip: Vintage


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Sunday, 15 June 2014

Meet The Cordial Churchman

That Dapper Chap interviews Ellie founder of The Cordial Churchman, makers of fine bow ties and accessories



A few weeks ago I was contacted by Ellie of the Cordial Churchman. She had spotted me on Instagram wearing bow ties as I often do on a Tuesday for #bowtietuesday and got in touch about her business and incredible range of bow ties. Before long I was sporting a beautiful floral bow tie of theirs made from Liberty of London print which I proudly sported for my recent shoot for the London College of Fashion.

Wearing my bow tie for a shoot at the London College of Fashion


When did the business start?

In June of 2009, I made a bow tie for my husband, Andy out of some leftover seersucker, a popular fabric here in the South, it turned out pretty nice and we started offering them through my blog at the time and to our surprise, they actually sold!  We made seersucker and madras bow ties throughout that summer and in the fall we transitioned into velvets, wools, and silks and it's been going strong ever since.

The Colt bow tie $32.00
A classic diamond point bow tie


What was the inspiration for the business?

We were really inspired by the traditional and prep clothing styles we were seeing mostly online but also here in South Carolina.  Mostly though, we used our customers as a gauge to help us know what to do next.  Since we custom make almost everything, we are able to take requests from gentlemen who order from us.  Once we get enough requests of the same thing we think - we should offer that product all the time.  It works pretty well for us.


A great range of bow ties


Who are the main players in the business?

It started with me (Ellie) doing most of the legwork of the sewing, designing and marketing.  Andy, my husband has been a great collaborator in this process though.  I'm always bouncing ideas off of him.  Andy has also been mostly the "face" of the business - even modelling each of the products we'd post online before we started buying mannequins and hiring models.  We started hiring sewers in the first 6 months when we realized a hobby had turned into a viable business.  Now we have 7 employees and we pride ourselves on trying to provide excellent customer service and personal touch with handwritten notes and quick responses to questions posted through e-mail and online.

A very cordial look with a pop of colour

The Alistair bow tie in a Liberty Of London print $49.00


Where is The Cordial Churchman based?

We are in Rock Hill, South Carolina.  We have a great workroom here on Main Street of our downtown.  It's a smaller town with a thriving art culture.


what makes you tick?

There's plenty of things that make me tick..... but sartorially, It's really hard for me to focus when I see a gentleman who has the bottom button of his waistcoat or blazer buttoned.  

The bow tie that Ellie offered as the first prize in the April That Dapper Chap Instagram contest


Do you have a strap line, values or a mission statement that the business lives by?

In all we do, we strive to be truly Cordial and hope to inspire others to be cordial as well.  A gentleman should dress and act in a way that sets others at ease and that's what we try to do and encourage.


The Cordial Churchman website


What are you most proud of?

When I first started sewing the bow ties, I thought I'd mastered the skill.  What amazed me is that when I started teaching our seamstresses, they would catch on so well that they were actually making them better than I was.  As a teacher, it was a real thrill to see our sewers grow to such experts.  As a the business owner, I was glad to know that I would be able to offer a quality well made product that was made with such precision and care.

Stunning bow ties at just $40

What do you take inspiration from?

I'm mostly inspired by fabric -  the color of the threads and texture of the weave.  But I draw inspiration from everwhere such as perusing the clothing at a local thrift store, travelling to larger cities, pictures on tumblr or instagram of stylish gentlemen, an abstract painting, a vintage print, the color of someone's eyes, a book about vintage clothing.

The stunning Gary patchwork Madras check tie. $42.00


What's your favourite material to work with?

I love a good wool tweed!

The Dungloe Dongeal Tweed bow tie $38.00

Due you attend any shows with your products?

Only shows here in South Carolina and the surrounding states, but I'm open it.

The stand at one of their local shows

What's the future?

Our customer have been requesting braces for years and we're excited to begin selling these. We also hope to move into more retail stores this year.  

The fantastic braces 


A close up of the hand worked leather


My look with the Cordial Churchmans braces. Posted to Instagram

Where do you want to be in 5 years?

I've never been good at this planning thing.  If you'd asked me 5 years ago where I'd be, I'd never have imagined this.  We love making the bow ties and I hope we can continue to do that as long as possible, but it would be fun to move into making other products as well.  

I just hope that in 5 years, we've inspired many people to be a bit more cordial in the way they dress, speak and act. 


Carlee, Erica, Ellie, Dominique in the TCC studio

Huge thanks to Ellie and the team at The Cordial Churchman for taking the time to speak to me and share their products. I wish them the very best of luck with their continued success and look forward to more products popping up on their site and their Instagram feed.

Find The Cordial Churchman



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